80 inch Harley Evolution motor Custom Bobber Chopper Rigid Hardtail -3 DAYS ONLY

2011 Custom Built Motorcycles Bobber

Price: US $3,450.00
Item location: Salem, Oregon, United States
Make: Custom Built Motorcycles
Model: Bobber
SubModel: Re-Built 1996 HD Evo motor
Type: Cruiser
Year: 2011
Mileage: 3,550
VIN: 4K7S81354BC030083
Color: Black
Engine size: 1,340
Vehicle Title: Clear

Location: SALEM, REGON - bike must be PICKED UP and PAID FOR by 3/30/16 or transaction will be refunded and sale voided!

This home-built Harley Evolution big twin bobber was built in 2011 and completed/registered at the start of 2012. It has approximately 3500 miles since it was completed (the first 2900 miles I rode without a speedometer so this is my best estimate). It has a clear title and is registered in Oregon as ASMBLD MC (assembled vehicle, otorcycle). The VIN # comes up in insurance agency computers as an American Classics Motorcycle vehicle (but I built it myself so it's not). It is currently insured for liability and PIP so I don't care. What you do with it is up to you.

It was ridden for two spring/summer seasons only and has been covered and idle since I started living too far from work to commute (around mid 2014). When the battery is charged it starts on the first try and pulls very strongly. In 6th gear on the freeway at 65 mph the rpm is around 2500 rpm.

What this bike has:

Most of this bike was built with new parts. Wiseco pistons and rings (standard bore and compression), new cylinders (3rd party OEM replacement parts), ltima "Old School" 2 inch open belt drive/dry clutch, ltima 6-speed transmission, 1/8" belt final drive. There's a professionally remanufactured and performance tuned Keihin carburetor from Killer Motorcycle Products, &N air filter in a cast aluminum smooth flowing intake air cleaner, ltima ignition/electronic wiring system, ccel single-fire performance coil. The rolling chassis was bought as a kit from American Classic Motors: Kraftec rigid frame (stock rake and trail), .1 gallon Sportster gas tank, ounded oil tank, rd party OEM replacement of Harley's fork, at T-bar handlebar, tock Harley hand controls, orward foot controls, enders, rake discs and 16" rear wheel. The 19" front wheel I added later. Both wheels are 80-spoke.

The original 21" front wheel is not pictured but is included. I changed it to a 19" for better real-world handling (so you get two front wheels). The tires are Conti Milestones (130/90 16 in back and 110/90 19 in front, he spare 21" wheel has a Conti Milestone 90/80 21, oo skinny for my preferences). The rear brake caliper is also an Ultima part but the front caliper is a used HD unit from around 2002 to 2006.

A leather Danny Gray "butt-crack" seat is on a pair of seat shocks at a "normal motorcycle" height (the mounting was done with clamps with no holes drilled or welding of tabs). The speedometer is a GPS unit from SpeedHut and it is very accurate and responsive. It looks cool because I stuffed it into a Norton 850 Commando's cast-aluminum housing (which was milled to fit and painted to match). The ignition switch is inside the speedo housing pointing down to the headlight (I think it's kinda cool, obody can find it).

The 80" engine was built from a 1996 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide short block with 17,600 miles on it. It was purchased from a custom builder who took it in partial payment for the crate motor his customer wanted installed. I had the cases split and the crank inspected by a reputable independent Harley technician (Dean's Cycle in Salem, R which is now out of business). The heads were also from a 1996 EVO motor with about the same mileage. They were also disassembled by Dean's Cycle. The crank, ases and heads were all found to be in excellent condition matching the description of the previous owners. While disassembled, he heads and crankcase halves were taken to a shop in Willamina, regon that does vapor blasting. The result was an excellent, lean finish that showed no evidence of any cracks or damage. This engine was assembled with an S&S oil pump (the standard unit, ot the hi-performance one) and a Dave Mackie DM500 camshaft (which boosts the low and mid range power). HD Screaming Eagle pushrods and JIMS rocker arms along with new rocker arm shafts were installed. The rest of the bike is a mish-mash of parts I bought just to get the project done and on the road. This was my first whole-bike build so I just shrunk-wrapped the wiring and zip-tied it to the frame tubes (so no holes have been drilled in this frame).The exhaust system is the quietest aftermarket 2-into-1 that I have ever heard (you won't get pulled over for noise with this bike). The exhaust mounting tabs would have fit perfectly on a Softtail but this is a rigid frame, so the mounting tab was hastily cut off and flipped around to allow the unit to be bolted in place (it's quite rigid and there is no leaking at the gaskets on the heads).

The gas tank was properly treated with 3-step Cream Kote system on the inside (there is no rust in it) but the exterior is a beautiful rattle-can application of many coats of Rustoleum Satin Black. It actually doesn't look bad and the bike gets complements! The frame and fenders were professionally powder-coated in Satin Black. The headlight tins were hastily rattle-can painted (tins were chrome plated on top and stainless on the bottom leg portion so I just sprayed them with Rustoleum so they would match). Lights and turn signals are from various sources but are cheap pieces (Walmart Trailer tailight for $5.95). The Headlight is an 8" aftermarket OEM replacement for a Royal Enfield. It didn't really fit there so it is bolted rigidly in place and cemented to the headlight fork tins with auto body bondo putty (and, es, hat's also painted with Rustoleum Satin Black).

What this bike needs:

The clutch cable is almost the right choice but not quite, o a new one would be better (standard HD cable but which one?).

The battery does not hold a charge, new one is needed. I can start this bike with a jump start but the battery simply won't hold a charge any longer (have been charging off-bike this week and it only charges enough to spin the engine a few revolutions).

What I would do if I had time and wasn't going overseas:

I would swap out the lights for some nicer stuff (you can be creative with your $$$).

I would re-wire the bike with the wiring running through the frame.

I would get a new battery or a beefy charging system. A new battery is NEEDED. I am not going to buy one at this point, orry.

I would have the Rustoleum Satin Black paint on the tank sanded out and have it professionally painted (again, our preference in color might not be mine, o . . . )

I would get the seat mounted with welded-on posts and probably go for something with a little more PADDING (ouch). I would use regular seat springs for a lower height or use "air shocks" for more comfort. The current riding position is upright.

There is no horn (so it needs a horn; the wiring is there but the horn was not carefully attached and it left on its own).

A crankcase breather filter/oil catcher. You can route the breather tube into the air cleaner (there is a plug in the hole for this connection) but I don't like sending oil into my intake so the tube just vents to the air (pointed right at crotch height for a warm, il-soaked bath should the oil return ever get plugged by dirt, onsider it an early-warning system to protect the engine). BTW, he oil lines are not only filtered with normal HD oil filter installation but there is an in-line hi-flow filter FROM the oil tank to prevent debris from reaching the oil pump in the first place.

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