1974 Norton Commando 850, Mk IIa , low mileage, numbers match, 2nd owner.

Description

The first owner paid 755 pounds on May 7 1974 to Page Motors in Edinburgh for this “Norton Roadster (Black) IIA”. I have the original paperwork and license plate for it. It was made into a caf? racer and used for a short tour following the ISDT then was shipped to Boston and then ridden to California. A short time later I became the second owner shipped it to Pennsylvania and have owned it since. Numbers matching - frame engine and trans - but the frame plate was damaged by P.O. during his cafe racer tour see photo. Clear PA title in hand.

Over the 39 years I’ve owned it there have been short periods of steady usage and longer ones of careful inside storage. The bike has not spent a night outside since I bought it. Each time I got it out of storage I’d detail it usually making some change or upgrade as well. Therefore although it has only 9075 miles it has been through some cosmetic changes – becoming a caf? racer twice. Only engine work ever done was a cylinder head R&R decades ago to repair a loose exhaust port – both sides were done and the valves and seats were gone over with new seals; a new head gasket used to reassemble.

Why am I selling my old Norton? I’ve owned it for over half my life and I’m now 70. Truth is I love the old beast but I’m developing a bum hip and can’t kick it so well anymore. (I’m going to be looking for a ’75 with the starter upgrade and no issues!) So check the photos carefully and if you are truly serious about bidding on it please read the pros and cons carefully. I am honest in my dealings and have tried to give a true picture of this Norton.

So what’s good changed new or better:

· Quality battery always on a maintenance charger in a warm place when not in the bike during riding season.

· Avon Super Venom AM18s with new tubes lots of tread left but on for some years now although there is no sign of any dry rot cracking.

· A RITA electronic ignition system which has never skipped a beat and provides great starting. With original instructions sheets.

· New plugs and plug wires with new Champion wire caps.

· A K&N reusable air filter which replaces the MkIIa black plastic airbox.

· New Barnett friction plates and new plain plates plus a brand new clutch center (06-3979) to replace the old one which had notched and caused clutch dragging. Last time I rode it the clutch worked great – no drag easy neutral find smooth engagement no slipping.

· Entire primary gone over during clutch work with new O-rings gaskets and access covers. Primary chain sprockets and alternator good.

· New Jim Comnoz reed valve breather assembly installed in sump replacing the original sump filter.

· A clutch rod seal to prevent trans fluid leaking into the primary.

· Transmission overhauled in the bike with new layshaft bearing new first gear main and first gear layshaft with bushing new outer mainshaft bearing new kickstart shaft with all new pawl items springs o-rings gaskets etc.

· Completely rebuilt original Amal 932s with all new gaskets: also new petcocks and complete fuel hose assembly.

· Various new switch gear parts as necessary; switch gear just recently completely dissembled and examined/repaired. All wiring and connectors gone over at that time redone as necessary though not necessarily to stock all lights working including parking lights and tach/speedo lights.

· New Teflon coated Venhill clutch cable.

· New stainless braided Goodrich front brake hose and new front stoplight switch.

· Completely rebuilt front caliper and master cylinder and system bled.

· New master 4-position switch with original lock cylinder using original key.

· New handlebar lock and key.

· New stainless braided rocker box oil supply lines banjos and gaskets.

· New Ferodo platinum series front pads.

· New kickstarter rubber plus new front and rear footpeg rubbers and new shifter rubber.

· New European height handlebars.

· Replacement pipes but not with balance tube and black cap style mufflers done 1997 very low mileage since then.

· All new fluids as of April 2012 – perhaps 1000 miles since then?

· New cush drive buffers new rear sprocket/drum (42 tooth) with new double row wheel bearing and new dummy axle and left side spacer and new 530 chain just installed. Countershaft sprocket is essentially new and is a 20 tooth. 22 tooth included.

· Original tool kit but missing some items.

· Extra used unused parts and pieces of every description including anything taken off when upgrades were made including all point ignition items hardware electrical intake exhaust brake drive train etc. I’m not saying every single thing ever replaced or removed is there but most are. Also 2 parts list books one illustrated and the official workshop manual if you need it.

So then what’s wrong/necessary:

· Original steel tank is super clean inside but has unfortunate scuffs/dings on each side where the original clip-ons allowed tank contact (blame the P.O.). Also there is one big smooth dent in the top (blame me but don’t ask too embarrassing).

· No rear stop light switch – I rewired the lower button on the left switch assembly to activate the brake light so I can illuminate it if I don’t want to use the front brake. This also allows me to flash the brake light at following cars even if I have no intention of slowing down. It can be useful.

· The bezel on the tachometer is broken and the end of the tach needle is broken off. It still works but seems erratic at times and needs a rebuild. I was going to send it away over the past winter but it never happened.

· The side covers were professionally painted but never pinstriped or had the decals installed. Modified rear mounting installed on bottom of the left sidecover to augment the druz fastener and upper locator pin.

· Battery is held in original location but with padding and a bungee cord – this was one of those “temporary” measures that never got addressed.

· Master switch and a Toyota (!!) horn relocated to custom bracket- original horn still hidden away in its inaccessible cave.

· The bike was a notorious wet-sumper. I finally installed a full-flow ? turn valve in the supply line to the crankcase – end of problem. Yes I understand the danger – I leave a magnetic reminder on top of the tank that says “oil” and can’t be missed. The bike will leak a few drops of oil even with the valve closed but only if it sits for a good while between rides.

· The boots on the front isolastic mount are dry-rotted probably the back too.

· Although the bike often starts on the 1st kick it can kick back with a vengeance if your technique is off or you’re tentative. The static and running ignition timing should be checked just to be sure it’s still on the money.

· The bike isn’t near perfect. Look closely in person and you’ll find little scratches dings scrapes etc. But as a whole it is very clean and a head turner and I doubt you’d be disappointed. There is road rash on the brake pedal but that item was sourced from another Norton when I changed the bike back from a production racer clone - the bike has never been down.

Please ask any questions you have but I will not respond if the answer can be found by carefully reading the description. I am honest and conscientious and the bike is described to the best of my knowledge at this time. It sounds runs and drives great and will bring a smile to your face. Don’t bid if you aren’t serious – an eBay vehicle sale is a binding contract. I don't sell on eBay as a business. See my feedback and bid with confidence.

Buyer must contact me within 3 days of end of auction and pay a non-refundable $500 down payment through paypal. Remainder of selling price must be paid within 7 days using eBay approved payment methods except paypal. The bike will not leave my possession until all the funds are in my account. USA only. There is no warranty or return policy in effect for this used vehicle and seller assumes no responsibility for use of the vehicle after the sale.

Local pick up only. I will not crate package or transport it in any way except to pack up the extra parts to either send with the bike or separately at the buyer’s expense. I will be readily available to a transporter or bike hauler of your choice but I will not help them load or secure the bike and you will be responsible for all costs involved in transporting the bike. If you wish to ship a box of parts and extras along with the bike be sure your hauler is aware of it. If you wish me to send a box separately I will require the shipping costs be paid before shipping.

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